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chapters/10-2-2-rolling-stars.md

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+Rolling stars is as much of a skill as it is a technique. The person rolling stars needs to have a good sense of size, consistency, and many other factors that influence rolling stars. In this tutorial, one method of rolling stars will be addressed and explained. Teaching is not an option, as hands-on experience is the only way to learn to roll stars both efficiently and properly.
+
+## Materials
+
+- A good place to start with materials is a star rolling device. Either you can go with an old-fashioned method and use a chinese wok or similar type pan or bowl, or you can either make or buy a star rolling machine. The basic star rolling machine consists of a plastic or metal tub or drum, either turned by a set of rollers or spun by a shaft. An electric motor runs the whole device, and the speed (RPM) of that motor determines how the device needs to be geared in order to run at maximum efficiency. See [Star roller](https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/index.php%5Etitle=Star_roller.htm "Star roller") for more information. The pyrotechnician needs one of these simple, yet advanced tools in order to begin rolling stars.
+- A small spray bottle with adjustable spray pattern.
+- Various types of scooping and scraping devices - spoons, putty knives, etc.
+- Star composition(s) for rolling. Beginners should use less-expensive compositions to start with as good amounts will be wasted due to the learning process. Amounts will vary. I find that to make rolled stars for a 3" round shell, it usually takes about 100g (4oz.) of composition. You will end up rolling only about 80-90g of this, and the rest of the composition will be excess. But it is better to have extra than not enough when deadlines are closing in.
+- Cores. I typically use lead shot, about #8, as suggested in some other tutorials for rolling stars. The lead works well to establish the cores of the stars as it picks up composition easily and weighs more than traditional cores like corn cob and rice hulls. Certain stars will use specialty cores such as [dragon eggs](https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/index.php%5Etitle=Crackling_Micro-stars.htm "Crackling Micro-stars"), [strobe composition](https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/index.php%5Etitle=Strobe_Mix.htm "Strobe Mix"), etc. Other types of core material can be used, but with some difficulty, especially to the beginner.
+- Some type of sizing "screen" in order to gauge the size of your stars. You will need these in order to keep your stars the same size and not have some growing much faster than others. I use a homemade approach to the uber-expensive sizing screens by drilling holes in a small plastic bowl. Use many different bowls for many different sizes. If you're sticking with small stars, I suggest sizes of 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". Much bigger than that and you'll be working with 4" shells.
+- Many plastic containers. You'll nees extra containers for wet, useless star composition, and for keeping separated the different sized stars once you run them through the screens.
+
+## Procedure
+
+What you will need:
+
+**Cores**- #8 lead work well, but I'm using small pumped stars.
+
+**[Composition](https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/index.php%5Etitle=Composition.htm "Composition")**- Some compositions are much easier to roll than others. Generally the hardest compositions to roll are ones with a large percentage of coarse flake aluminium. People may also have trouble with coarse Titanium containing compositions, some Charcoal streamers and Red gum bound stars.
+
+**Solvent/adhesive**- Alcohol and water at 25:75 is the standard formula.
+
+**AND**: A star roller or wok.
+  
+First, You have to choose a type of core. In this example I'll be using pumped Yankie's flashing stars. I'll be layering some slow meal powder on them. This will be a Tiger Tail like affect.
+
+Fill your roller with 5 to 15 cores. Turn on your roller or start moving your wok in a circular motion. (Make sure that it does not exceed 70 rpm. Mine is about 60. Add a little dry composition and spray a small amount of alcohol/water at about 25:75. Try not to hit the bowl. If you do, its not the end of the world.
+
+Your cores should be picking up the composition. If not, add some more water/alcohol mix. Only add in small amounts. Then add some more dry composition and some more alcohol/water.
+
+Continue this process until your stars are your desired size. Then coat them in prime.

chapters/10-6-charcoal-manufacturing.md

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+## Carbonisation process
+
+### Materials
+
+Wood
+
+There are various types of wood that can be used in black powder, and all perform differently. Willow, Alder, Birch, Fir, Oak, Beech, Ash, Pine, Balsa are just some of the woods that can be used to manufacture charcoal and if charred properly it will produce excellent quality black powder. In this example the wood used is balsa wood which can be bought from hardware’s and hobby stores. It is very soft and light weight wood, which is a little expensive, however you can actually make a reasonable amount of very fast burning black powder with a small amount. The piece in the picture is 80cm long, 10cm wide and 1cm thick and cost $5.95.
+
+Cooking container
+
+Any pot with a lid will work, as the wood needs to be charred without (or as little as possible) the presence of oxygen. In this example we are using an old paint tin with a few holes drilled into the lid to allow the gases to escape.
+
+Heat source
+
+You need a moderate heat source to char the wood. Too much heat will burn the wood completely through using most of its fuel source for your black powder. Basically the charred wood when finished should be black to dark brown in colour. Either place your container on an open fire or like in this example, as we are only making a very small amount, on the BBQ gas burner.
+
+Method
+
+If using an old paint tin, make sure it's clean of any paint. Drill several 5mm holes into the lid, this will allow the gases to escape during cooking time. Break your wood/twigs into small pieces and pack them tightly into the paint tin and secure the lid. Do not use wood that is still wet (fresh green wood), as it takes a long time to dry inside the cooker and in the process a large amount of energy from the wood is lost driving off the water. Also, never use treated woods of any kind as these can contain arsenic and other nasty chemicals and you don't want to breathe these in as they are released during cooking time.
+
+Now place your tin or cooker onto your heat source. As mentioned previously don't char your wood with too strong a heat source or it will cook too fast and burn too much of your woods fuel rendering it pretty much useless. As the walls of the paint tin are thin and the wood we are cooking is very soft, within a minute or two you will start to see smoke escaping out of the holes in the lid. This is called pyrolysis, the process of heating the wood in the absence of oxygen. Every few minutes or so give the paint tin a 1/4 of a turn to allow the wood inside to char evenly.
+
+Depending on the amount, type and size of wood you are charring the cooking time will vary. Basically once you have given the container several rotations and the smoke escaping is slowing down then its time to remove from the heat. It is important to make sure you don't heat for too long. Good charcoal looks like the original wood / twigs but black with a brown tinge. It should not have split lengthwise and it should break easily with a sharp snap. The rings in the wood should still be visible. If the charred wood has turned a grey or white colour, its been cooked to long and should be discarded. In the case of balsa wood, let it stand for several hours to cool. With denser wood, allow it to cool for about 24 hours. You don't want to add an oxidiser and shove it inside a ball mill if there is a chance it may still be hot inside the charred wood.
+
+In the example only half of the balsa wood was added to the paint tin, and it yielded about 20 grams of very high quality charcoal. If making standard 75:15:10 black powder you can make about 123 grams of very hot and very fast burning black powder. Not bad for about 20 minutes work.
+
+Most people who make high quality black powders use it only in black powder rockets, cylindrical shell breaking and so on where performance is required. Standard black powder is used for other general purposes like dusting stars to assist in ignition at effect time.
+
+Medium-scale pine charcoal production may be carried out in a large steel cauldron or drum of at least 80 litres. The cauldron is equipped with a lid having a 20mm gas escape tube attached in the middle, using an angled tube connector. The container is filled with pine logs, lid is secured in place using aluminium foil tape, and the whole setup is mounted on a sand-bank, bottom of the cauldron heading up, and the gas escape tube in horizontal. The cauldron is rounded with masonry bricks, forming a combustion chamber between the bricks and the cauldron. The wood is then cooked for three hours, with the temperature held near 450'C. The wood tar extracted in the process is collected in a tin and the residual gas is burned. The escaping gas is carbon monoxide, and accordingly this process should occur outside to prevent poisoning. It is important that you let the gas escape for ten minutes before you try to ignite it; the air in the retort must be subsided by carbon monoxide to prevent an explosion.
+
+To get good pine charcoal, the heating must be stopped when the tar production is very minimal at the temperature of 450'C. The gas flame is observed small and 'dirty' at this point, tar seems to be 'watery'. The whole setup is allowed to cool at least one day before opening, otherwise the contents will be combusted. After you open the container, crush the contents with a large shovel, then shift out coal with a kitchen sieve, crush again, shift again, until all the coal is reduced into powder. The coal made this way is in a form of little needles, just perfect for long hang-time comet/star effects. In the comp mixing process, a little acetone should be added for dissolving resins left in the coal, to make a path for the oxidizer-water solution into coal.
+
+There are alternative methods for heating up the retort. The gas escaping, could be returned in a round burner heating the cauldron, wood would be dry-distilled on their own energy, the gas could be mixed with LPG gas. Electric heating is also possible. Be careful, do not get incinerated or electrocuted.
+
+The yield of wood tar is 1-5 litres, varying greatly with the resin content of the wood. Save the tar for other purposes. It is great for preserving wood but it is carcinogenic, so it must not be ingested.
+
+## Charcoal Suitability Table
+
+The following table lists general suitability guidelines for charcoals coming from different types of raw wood. It must be noted that much depends on the specific subspecies used, the manufacturing process, the derivation of the wood and other factors like the season of cut.
+
+Charcoals "make or break" gunpowder; those listed as "suitable" can be used for BP manufacture and can give adequate results. However, scientific tests show that speed increases up to 500% are possible when using high performance charcoal. Thus, who wants optimum performance is referred to the latter.
+
+It is plain that the final performance of any powder is also largely determined by the production method used. Thus it is not uncommon if e.g. a precipitated Hazel black powder clearly outstrips a hand ground powder using alder buck-thorn charcoal even if the latter contains the better material.
+
+|   |   |   |   |
+|---|---|---|---|
+|**Raw material**|**Suitable for BP?**|**Suitable for spark effects?**|**Additional information**|
+|Activated charcoal|no|suitable|
+|[Ailanthus (altissima)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/tree_of_heaven/tree_of_heaven.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/tree_of_heaven/tree_of_heaven.html")|suitable|unsure|
+|Alder (Alnus Rubra, Red Alder)|very suitable|unsure|
+|Alder (Alnus Tenuifolia, Thinleaf Alder)|suitable|unsure|
+|Alder (Alnus Glutinosa, Black Alder)|suitable|very suitable|Specified for BP by the british military|
+|Alder (Alnus Cordata, Italian Alder)|very suitable|unsure|Italian alder|
+|[Apple](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/apple_common/apple_common.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/apple_common/apple_common.html")|unsure, most: no|suitable|"Pyrus mains" gave excellent results in BP|
+|[Aspen](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/aspen_quaking/aspen_quaking.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/aspen_quaking/aspen_quaking.html")|suitable|unsure|"Trembling aspen" is a top performer|
+|Balsa|very suitable|no|Expensive raw material|
+|Bamboo|suitable|unsure|
+|[Beech](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/beech_european/beech_european.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/beech_european/beech_european.html")|suitable|suitable|Used in english powders|
+|[Birch (White)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/birch_european/birch_european.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/birch_european/birch_european.html")|unsure|unsure|Specifications coming soon...|
+|[Birch (Black)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/birch_black/birch_black.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/birch_black/birch_black.html")|unsure|unsure|
+|Buckthorn (alder)|very suitable|unsure|A top performer; specified for BP by the british military; "Frangula alnus"; highest porosity|
+|Buckthorn (carolina)|very suitable|unsure|A top performer|
+|[Cherry (virginian)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/cherry_flowering/cherry_flowering.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/cherry_flowering/cherry_flowering.html")|suitable|unsure|
+|Coconut|no|unsure|Often found as laboratory charcoal|
+|Cotton|unsure|unsure|Said to give excellent gunpowder|
+|[Cottonwood (narrow leaf)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/cottonwood/cottonwood.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/cottonwood/cottonwood.html")|very suitable|unsure|
+|[Dogwood (cornus florida)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/dogwood_flowering/dogwood_flowering.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/dogwood_flowering/dogwood_flowering.html")|very suitable|unsure|
+|Dogwood (cornus sanguined)|suitable|unsure|Used for BP charcoal in Britain|
+|Grapevine|unsure, most: very suitable|unsure|Performance depends on variety used; high ash content (consider formula adjustments)|
+|Grass|no|unsure|
+|Hazel|suitable|unsure|
+|Hemp|suitable|suitable|Popular for BP manufacture in the east|
+|[Hornbeam](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/hornbeam_american/hornbeam_american.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/hornbeam_american/hornbeam_american.html")|no|unsure|
+|[Horse chestnut](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/horsechestnut/horsechestnut.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/horsechestnut/horsechestnut.html")|suitable|very suitable|
+|Jute|suitable|unsure|
+|Lime|unsure|unsure|
+|Madrone (pacific)|suitable|unsure|
+|[Maple](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/maple_black/maple_black.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/maple_black/maple_black.html")|very suitable|unsure|Reputed choice of [GOEX](GOEX.html "GOEX"), member reported excellent results using silver maple|
+|Mesquite|suitable|unsure|
+|[Oak (chrysolepsis)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/oak_pin/oak_pin.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/oak_pin/oak_pin.html")|suitable|unsure|
+|Paulownia|very suitable|no|A top performer, popular in the east|
+|[Peach](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/peach/peach.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/peach/peach.html")|suitable|suitable||
+|[Pine](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/pine_red/pine_red.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/pine_red/pine_red.html")|unsure, some: very suitable|very suitable|Maybe the best for fire dust; BP: tests done with "Pinus radiata"(hardwood pine!) gave excellent results; too many species to generalize|
+|[Plum (prunus domestica)](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/plum_flowering/plum_flowering.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/plum_flowering/plum_flowering.html")|very suitable|unsure|A top performer; low ash content|
+|[Poplar](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/tulip_tree/tulip_tree.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/tulip_tree/tulip_tree.html")|suitable|unsure|Related to willow|
+|Sesban|suitable|unsure|
+|Tamarind|suitable|unsure|
+|Teak|suitable|unsure|
+|Umbauba|suitable|unsure|Reputed choice of Elephant Brand|
+|[Willow](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/willow_pussy/willow_pussy.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/willow_pussy/willow_pussy.html")|very suitable|very suitable|Acceptable results with any type; [Black willow](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/willow_black/willow_black.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/willow_black/willow_black.html") gives excellent results, Rocky mountain willow is inferior, [white willow](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/willow_white/willow_white.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/willow_white/willow_white.html") is good and specified by the British military, [weeping willow](http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact pages/willow_weeping/willow_weeping.html "http://www.oplin.org/tree/fact%20pages/willow_weeping/willow_weeping.html") and pacific willow both give very good results. Gives long lasting sparks.|
+
+## Theory
+
+From U.S. Geological Survey Scientific Investigations Report 2004-5292: Aliphatic components are distilled off or converted to aromatic species early in the charring process. No porosity develops in samples with heating at 250’C, even though substantial material loss does occur. At 300’C, both pine and poplar woods develop porosity and reach maximum aromatic carbon percentage after 8h of charring, whenafter the percentage starts decreasing. At 350’C and above there will be development of porosity and rapid decrease in aromatic carbon percentage after the first hour of heating. The appearance of porosity does coincide with the loss of aromatic carbon, which indicates that porosity does not develop, until after the conversion of aliphatic to aromatic carbon has ceased and aromatic carbon is being removed. There is some indication that prolonged heating may cause fused-ring structure to coalesce and reduce porosity. Wood consists of roughly two thirds of cellulose and one third of lignin. In lignin, three types of phenylpropanoid moieties may exist: Parahydroxyphenyl, guaiacyl and syringyl types. Fifty percent of polymeric linkages in lignin are Beta-O-4 ether linkages of phenylpropanoids. Cleavage of these linkages results in substantial depolymerization of lignin. At 250'C lignin shows little degradation, but at 300'C and above much more alteration is apparent.
+
+From US patent H000072: Polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons having no functional oxygen groups - like antracene, does not sustain combustion with potassium nitrate. Instead, phenolic compounds - which are aromatic compounds having functional oxygen groups, burns very fast. For example, compositions using phenolphthalein as a charcoal substitute burns in fact faster than ordinary black powder. But, phenolics which undergo hydroquinone to quinone type oxidation, are much less reactive than other phenolics notably in compositions that contain sulphur. It is assumed that sulphur turns hydroquinone/catechol moieties into some less reactive species.
+
+From The DFRC Method for Lignin Analysis. 2. Monomers from Isolated Lignins: Relative distribution ratios of parahydroxyphenyl(P), guaiacyl(G) and syringyl(S) species of lignin propanoids depend on the wood species. Ratio for pine P=0,03 : G=1 : S=0, for aspen P=0,02 : G=1 : S=1.64, for willow P=0 : G=1 : S=1.54 and for kenaf P=0 : G=1 : S=5.08.
+
+It is known, that pine charcoal is good for producing long lasting sparks whereas aspen or willow charcoal yields fast black powder. According to a source, the chinese use kenaf charcoal in their fast black powder. Charcoal prepared from wood with syringyl lignin, might account for fast burning rate. According to another source, 'sulphurless black powder burned faster than powder with sulphur'. This might indicate that hydroquinone to quinone type oxidation reactions take place in some charcoals. Before conclusions these claims have to be tested for proof.
+
+
+Conclusions:
+
+Both charring temperature and time strongly affects the characteristics of resulting charcoal.
+Starting material affects the characteristics of resulting charcoal.
+Starting material should be reduced small enough to ensure fast and uniform heating.
+Charring temperature of 250’C is too low.
+Charring duration at 300’C should be few hours but not over 8 hours.
+Charring duration at 350’C should never exceed one hour.
+Control of charring duration at over 350’C will be difficult.
+Charring should be stopped when the smoke has ceased.
+Charring retort should have a temperature controller.
+Charring retort should be heated uniformly.

chapters/10-D-cake.md

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+A cake firework, also known as a candle barrage is a firework comprising a series of roman candles or single shot tubes connected together. Typically, the internal fusing is set to fire each tube in series, or to fire several tubes at the same time, or a combination of these. Typically a cake will resemble from the outside a simple cube or other rectangular covered shape; after detonation, a large number of cardboard tubes (the candles) will be visible in the top of the firework (the paper cover having been blown off by the discharging stars).
+
+In a traditional cake, all the candles point upwards; a variant is called the fan or angle cake.
+
+Cakes are one of the most popular types of firework, as they can create spectacular and long-lasting effects from a single ignition while minimising safety concern. In the United Kingdom, the reclassification of aerial shells to Category 4 has popularised cakes as a method for achieving similar effects while staying within safety guidelines, particularly by firing multiple candles at the same time.
+
+The cake described here consists of a paper tube that is tightly sealed by a clay end plug on one side. Inside the paper tube, a lift charge and some stars are placed. The process is repeated for a number of tubes and then they are fused together with a sufficient length of visco fuse. The tubes are then bound together and device is glued to a wooden base for stability. When the cake is fired, the fuse ignites each tube one at a time and the stars are shot upwards into the sky.
+## Materials
+
+Casing
+
+For a casing you will need a cardboard tube. Under no circumstances be tempted to use materials other than paper, it is dangerous and unnecessary. Roll or buy thick walled cardboard tubes, preferably parallel wound as they are much stronger than spiral wound tubes. The tubes should be sufficiently strong to allow ramming without wrinkling and to withstand the internal pressure during effect time. In this tutorial we are using small tubes that are 90mm long, have a 4mm wall and are 10mm inner diameter. Recycled toilet roll tubes are a cheaper alternative to bought tubes. Simply cut the toilet roll tube in half lengthways down the middle and roll around a wooden dowel or rammer, use white glue to glue to tube together. Sticky tape can be used to keep the tube bound together while it is drying.
+
+End plugs
+
+The base end plug is sealed with compressed clay, bentonite clay works well however in this example we will be using ground up kitty litter.
+
+Fuse
+
+Standard visco fuse works fine, or if you don't have access to this then black match is just as effective. About a 20 second long delay between ignition and effect is preferred. This is quite long, but it allows you to not only reach a safe distance but cakes also look much better from a distance. The rate at which the stars are ejected can be altered by using different types of fuses which burn at different speeds.
+
+Lift charge
+
+Granulated black powder works well.
+
+Stars
+
+You can use any type of star for your star mine (pumped, rolled or cut) however they need to be small enough to fit inside your casing. This example uses the granite star.
+
+Rammer or wooden dowel
+
+A rammer, wooden dowel or any other solid tool that will fit neatly inside the casing will be sufficient. This is used to both compress the end plugs and push the top end plug down inside the casing.
+
+Misc items
+
+Plastic mixing cups, digital scales, plastic spoons, drill and 2mm drill bit, small funnel, rubber hammer, paper masking tape and a wooden base.
+## Construction
+
+Take the casing and seal one end of it with a small piece of paper tape. Stand the casing upright on a solid surface and using your funnel place a 1/4 of a teaspoon of powdered clay into the casing. Insert the rammer into the casing and with your rubber hammer give the rammer a few good thumps. Be careful not to hit it too hard as you may split your casing at the base rendering it useless. It just needs to be firm enough to compress the clay powder until it's hard. Your aim is to create a clay plug this is the same thickness as the inner diameter of your casing, in this case 10mm. You may need to add another 1/4 of a teaspoon of powder clay to achieve this. Remove the paper tape from the base to expose the clay end plug.
+
+Use your drill to make a small 2mm hole just above the clay plug, this is where the visco fuse will be inserted. Do not drill a hole that is too large otherwise the internal pressure generated inside the casing will escape out of the hole and result in your effect stars not being ejected. Repeat this process for all the tubes that are going to be used in the cake device.
+
+Lay the tubes out on the ground side by side and measure a good length of visco fuse so it is long enough to pass through each tube. Remember add about 20cm extra to all you time to retreat to a safe distance at effect time. Now insert the fuse into each tube through the hole you drilled above the clay end plug. It is a good idea to secure the fuse to the side of the first tube after feeding it through the hole with some paper tape as this will help prevent the tubes from sliding off.
+
+Take hold of the end tube (the one which will be ignited last) and carefully roll them all together. Secure the rolled up tubes with a good length of paper tape, wrapped tightly several times around. Next step is to load each tube with lift charge and stars. Stand the rolled tubes on a solid surface ready for loading.
+
+Weigh out 1 - 1.5 grams of lift powder using your digital scales or accurate powder measuring scope. Depending on the quality of your lift powder you may need to adjust this quantity. The stronger the powder the less you need to use and vice versa. If you are not sure of the performance quality of your powder, it is better to add less or do a star test to determine the correct amount. You don't want the cake casing exploding at effect time or throwing them so high and fast they fail to ignite. Add your lift powder to your casing using your funnel, tapping it too gently to settle the powder.
+
+Depending on their size, insert 1 or 2 stars inside the casing so they sit on top of the lift powder. If you have smaller stars and are in a position were you can insert more you will need to add a little meal powder so that it surrounds the stars. This will help to ignite them at effect time. You don't want half of your effect stars being shot into the air unlit. To add more effect to your cake you can use different star compositions, or you can use crossette stars.
+
+A small piece of tissue paper rolled into a ball can be used to gently plug the open end of the tubes to help prevent the contents from falling out during transport. However it is very important not to make the plug too tight otherwise the tube may explode. Secure the device on to a large stable piece of wood with some hot melt glue. You can also wrap some coloured paper around the finished device to give it a more professional appearance.
+
+The firework device and associated equipment must be properly secured so that the firework and equipment do not become disturbed, dislodged or knocked over, or having the orientation changed regardless of the nature during a display, through normal or abnormal functioning of the firework, adjacent firework or through any other activity. It is recommended that a firework cake be secured to ground with a minimum of two wooden or metal rods with several strong turns of wide adhesive tape. The ground should be solid enough to rigidly hold the stakes with no lateral or upward movement possible.
+
+Reloading
+
+You can reload your casing as long as the previous shoot has not damaged it. Give your casing at least 30 minutes to rest before reloading, as there may be some hot embers inside you can't see. This can be dangerous when you are reloading new black powder as it could ignite unexpectedly. Examine your fuse hole to ensure it is still in good condition and has not been burnt into a bigger hole. This also includes a good examination of the casing walls. If the casing walls are thick enough you should get several shots before having to retire it. Before reloading your tube, it is recommended you clean it will a large drill bit. Use a 9mm or 10 mm drill bit and with your fingers gently slide this inside the casing and twist to remove any unwanted dross. If you are not sure your casing can withstand another shoot then don't risk it.

chapters/10-D-flare.md

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+
+A flare (or fusee) is described as a luminous device, that produces a brilliant light or intense heat without an explosion. Flares are used for signalling, illumination, or defensive countermeasures in civilian and military applications.
+
+Materials
+Casing
+Paper casing should be used. Under no circumstances use any thing other than paper, it is dangerous and unnecessary. You should be able to buy or make your own tubes buy rolling. Make sure they are heavy and thick walled to withstand the pressure when pressing.
+
+Tools
+A rammer with the same diameter as the casings ID is needed. It should be made of non-sparking material, such as aluminium or brass. Since most flares use compositions that contains metals, they need to be pressed using a hydraulic press or an arbor press.
+
+Composition
+There are many types of compositions for flares. Different compositions can be found at the Flare compositions page.
+A much cheaper version of the flare can be made with simple black powder with additional 5-10% metal powder.
+
+A nice bright flare can be made with this composition.
+NOTE: the addition of a percentage of charcoal will enhance the color of the potassium ions in the flame, slow the burn rate, and lower the candlepower to a tolerable yet functional level.
+
+Flare Composition
+Potassium Nitrate	5
+Aluminium (atomised, 200-325 mesh)	3
+Sulphur	2
+Fuse
+
+Simple visco fuse should do, but if this is unavailable, black match may be substituted. You may have trouble lighting metal fuelled comps so a hotter burning fuse maybe in order, I've used green falling leaf.
+
+Other
+You will need to choke one end of the flare. For this, bentonite and kaolin clay work well. The dry clay powder is rammed into the casing, producing a solid plug. Cheap kitty litter is often made of bentonite clay and may be used instead. You will also need masking tape, thin kraft paper, glue and twine.
+
+Flare Construction
+
+Seal one end of your casing with masking tape and put an increment of clay in the tube. Next insert the rammer and ram or press it in the tube. The clay plug should be as thick as the diameter of the casing.
+
+Take your casing and stand it upright. Gradually fill it with one increment your composition, then press it with the rammer in a hydraulic press or an arbor press. Continue to do this step until the tube is almost full of composition, but leave about 1-2cm at the top.
+
+Insert your fuse into the top of your flare on one side, then make a nosing by gluing a piece of kraft paper around the end of the tube, then tie it to the fuse using twine. This will make sure the fuse will stay in place
+
+NOTE: The flare should not be hand held, since it is homemade. Instead it should be inserted in the ground and then lit.

chapters/11-4-jumping-cracker.md

@@ -0,0 +1,26 @@
+**Jumping crackers** or Jumping jacks are a type of [firecracker](Firecracker.html "Firecracker"). When lit each segment loudly pops (or bangs, depending on how much paper is used) and has a nasty habit to unpredictably jump around, (hence the name) changing direction with each bang.
+
+They were a common firework available in assortments in the 1930's from such companies as Brocks. They were subsequently banned for their unpredictable nature.
+
+## Materials
+
+**Kraft paper**
+
+You will need some kraft paper around 30-50 lbs in thickness.
+
+**Propellant**
+
+[Meal powder](Meal_-_Black_powder.html "Meal - Black powder"), a few percents of [dextrin](Dextrin.html "Dextrin") can be added, however not necessary.
+
+**Other**
+
+Fuse, preferably [visco fuse](Visco_fuse.html "Visco fuse"), but [black match](Black_match.html "Black match") or [touchpaper](Touchpaper.html "Touchpaper") can substitute. Also a paint brush, water, glue, and string is needed.
+
+|   |
+|---|
+||
+|## Method|
+|[![Click for larger image](images/thumb/8/88/Strips_1.jpg/151px-Strips_1.jpg)](Image_Strips_1.jpg.html "Click for larger image")<br><br>[![](skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png)](Image_Strips_1.jpg.html "Enlarge")<br><br>Click for larger image<br><br>A jumping cracker is made of a craft paper strip roughly 6 cm by 25cm. It is also possible to use a longer strip, this will result in more cracks (or "jumps"). First a line of wet [meal powder](Meal_-_Black_powder.html "Meal - Black powder") is applied with a small paint brush along the longer edge of the strip of kraft paper, which is then wound several times and glued.|
+|[![Click for larger image](images/thumb/e/ee/Strips_2.jpg/151px-Strips_2.jpg)](Image_Strips_2.jpg.html "Click for larger image")<br><br>[![](skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png)](Image_Strips_2.jpg.html "Enlarge")<br><br>Click for larger image<br><br>It looks much like quick match tube. One end is then bent, thus making an end chamber.|
+|[![Click for larger image](images/thumb/b/b8/Strips_3.jpg/151px-Strips_3.jpg)](Image_Strips_3.jpg.html "Click for larger image")<br><br>[![](skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png)](Image_Strips_3.jpg.html "Enlarge")<br><br>Click for larger image<br><br>The tube is now zig-zagged as many times as the length allows and a piece of fuse stuck into the opposite open end.|
+|[![Click for larger image](images/thumb/b/b7/Strips_4.jpg/151px-Strips_4.jpg)](Image_Strips_4.jpg.html "Click for larger image")<br><br>[![](skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png)](Image_Strips_4.jpg.html "Enlarge")<br><br>Click for larger image<br><br>A piece of twine or string is then tightly wound around the center and criss-crossed around each segment of the snake-looking device. It is then left to dry for a day or more.<br><br>When lit, each segment loudly pops (or bangs, depending on how much paper is used) and has a nasty habit to unpredictably jump around (hence the name) changing direction with each bang.|

chapters/99-1-chemical-boric-acid.md

@@ -4,6 +4,10 @@
  
 $H3BO3$
 
+**CAS number**
+
+10043-35-3
+
 **Synonyms**
  
 TBD

chapters/99-1-chemical-diatomaceous-earth.md

@@ -0,0 +1,48 @@
+## Diatomaceous Earth
+
+**Formula**
+
+Complex mineral which is rich in Silica (80-90%)
+
+**Pyrotechnics use**
+
+???
+
+**Synonyms**
+
+diatomite, celite or kieselguhr 
+
+**Description**
+
+A naturally occurring, soft, siliceous sedimentary rock that can be crumbled into a fine white to off-white powder. It has a particle size ranging from more than 3 mm to less than 1 μm, but typically 10 to 200 μm.[1] Depending on the granularity, this powder can have an abrasive feel, similar to pumice powder, and has a low density as a result of its high porosity. The typical chemical composition of oven-dried diatomaceous earth is 80–90% silica, with 2–4% alumina (attributed mostly to clay minerals), and 0.5–2% iron oxide.
+
+Diatomaceous earth consists of the fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled microalgae, that have accumulated over millions of years.
+
+```
+Name: Fence-post prime
+
+Type: Prime
+Source: Eugene Yurek
+
+Potassium Nitrate             65
+Charcoal Airfloat             12
+Sulfur                        10
+Diatomaceous Earth             5
+Silicon (325 mesh)             5
+Charcoal, spruce, ball milled  3
+
+Named for it's purported ability to light wet fence posts in a hurricane. The silicon burns and forms molten glass.
+
+I don't want to copy and paste the comments from passfire here but I'll try to cover a few bases.. The DE makes this stuff pretty fluffy. Use about 1/3 less than you would with a regular prime. A layer 1-1.5mm thick is all you should ever need. If your stars are ridiculously difficult, up the silicon to no more than 10%.
+
+Source: https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/2676-fence-post-prime/
+```
+
+**Sources** 
+
+
+**Hazards**
+ 
+Wikipedia
+
+https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth

chapters/99-1-chemical-hexamine.md

@@ -18,6 +18,9 @@ Crystals of hexamine burn with a yellow flame and the material has been used in
 
 **Sources** 
 
+In Europe Hexamine is regulated by law Regulation (EU) 2019/1148 and not easy available.
+
+Could possibly be replaced with charcoal or lactose when not available or cost is a problem.
 
 **Hazards**
  

chapters/99-1-chemical-parlon.md

@@ -16,9 +16,17 @@ Chlorinated rubber, chlorub, pergut
 
 Parlon is a acetone-soluble polymer that is used as a chlorine donor and binder. It is a good example of one of the new chemicals that has become available in the past few decades for use in compositions.
 
+Parlon is a registered trademark of the Hercules Powder Company, but-like "Kleenex" and "Band-Aid"-"Parlon" has come to be a generic name for any chlorinated rubber used to bind these stars, and to act as a chlorine donor (which enriches their color). Older brands of chlorinated rubber, such as Alloprene and Parlon, are no longer readily available, so what is typically supplied nowadays is Chlorub, the modern equivalent.  
+  
+Some Parlon comes as a powder which flows freely through a 40-mesh screen. Other varieties come with granules or small flakes which will not pass the same screen, comprising 10-12% of the total powder.  
+  
+These larger particles will soften in the star composition we are about to make once the acetone is added, so they may be left in the Parlon as it is weighed. Just remember that as you are mixing the star composition through the 40-mesh screen, these particles will not pass through the screen, and must be added back to the composition after it is screen-mixed.  
+  
+Alternatively, the larger particles may be removed from the Parlon with a 40-mesh screen and simply discarded. This makes the screen-mixing of the star composition a bit easier.
+
 **Sources** 
 
-Parlon seems to be available from dedicated pyro suppliers only.
+Parlon seems to be available from dedicated pyro suppliers only. An alternative is polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
 
 **Hazards**
 

drafts/99-1-chemical-template.md

@@ -1,7 +1,8 @@
-## <name>
+## name
 
 **Formula**
  
+**CAS number**
 
 **Pyrotechnics use**
 

drafts/998-suppliers.md

@@ -1,5 +1,6 @@
 # Suppliers
 
+* <woodysrocks.com>
 ## International
 
 * Ball mills [Lortone.com](https://lortone.com/)
@@ -43,6 +44,9 @@
 * [Werth-Metall.de](https://werth-metall.de/), Amazon webshop <https://www.amazon.de/s?me=AJ21X4WMO1BN0&marketplaceID=A1PA6795UKMFR9> https://shop.werth-metall.de/Chemikalien
 * https://www.pyropowders.de/
 * [Sstotz.de - Online shop for fireworkers](https://www.sstotz.de/) Mortier kokers (Abschussmörser)
+* https://www.profipyro.de/
+* https://www.laborladen.de/
+* https://www.pch-distribution.de/
 
 **The Netherlands (NL)**
 
@@ -64,6 +68,7 @@
 * <https://essextubes.com/mortar-tubes/>
 * <https://category4fireworks.co.uk/product-category/grp-tubes/>
 * https://pyro-gear.co.uk/Shop.html
+* https://www.inoxia.co.uk/
 
 France (FR)
 

drafts/998-suppliers.sync-conflict-20240406-191249-TWJVVQA.md

@@ -0,0 +1,61 @@
+# Suppliers
+
+## International
+
+* Ball mills [Lortone.com](https://lortone.com/)
+
+## United States (US)
+
+* [CannonFuse.com](https://cannonfuse.com/)
+* [Pyroworks.us](https://pyroworks.us/)
+* [Skylighter.com](https://www.skylighter.com/)
+* [pyrocreations.com](https://www.pyrocreations.com/)
+* [PyroDirect](https://www.pyrodirect.com/)
+* [PyroBuild.com](https://pyrobuild.com/)
+* [Pyro Chemical Source LLC](https://www.pyrochemsource.com/)
+* [Fireworks Cookbook shop](https://www.fireworkscookbook.com/shop/)
+* [HOBBY CHEMICAL SUPPLY](https://hobbychemicalsupply.com/shop)
+* https://fireworkchemicals.com/ 
+* https://www.greatlakesmortarracks.us/
+* https://pyro-aluminum.com/
+
+## Russia (RU)
+
+* https://pyrohobby.ru/
+* https://pyrocomponent.com/
+
+## Europe (EU)
+
+* [PyroHub.EU](https://pyrohub.eu/)
+* 
+
+**Spain (ES)**
+
+* [Nitroparis.com](https://nitroparis.com/)
+
+**Germany (DE)**
+
+* [Pyro-Tools.eu](https://pyro-tools.eu/)
+* [Werth-Metall.de](https://werth-metall.de/), Amazon webshop <https://www.amazon.de/s?me=AJ21X4WMO1BN0&marketplaceID=A1PA6795UKMFR9>
+* [Sstotz.de - Online shop for fireworkers](https://www.sstotz.de/)
+* https://www.pyropowders.de/
+
+**The Netherlands (NL)**
+
+* [Brouwland.com](https://brouwland.com/)
+* [Keramikos.nl](https://keramikos.nl/)
+* [Bariumbuizen.nl](https://www.bariumbuizen.nl/)
+* [de Hekserij](https://hekserij.nl/)
+* [Labstuff.nl](https://www.labstuff.nl/)
+* [Labshop.nl](https://www.labshop.nl)
+* https://www.dutchchems.nl/
+
+**United Kingdom (UK)**
+
+* [Cooperman435.co.uk](https://www.cooperman435.co.uk/)
+* [Potterycrafts.co.uk](https://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/)
+* [Ammonium Perchlorate UK](http://www.ammoniumperchlorate.co.uk/)
+* [UK's #1 supplier for hobby chemicals](https://www.hobbychemicals.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home)
+* <https://essextubes.com/mortar-tubes/>
+* <https://category4fireworks.co.uk/product-category/grp-tubes/>
+* https://pyro-gear.co.uk/Shop.html

drafts/weblinks.md

@@ -193,7 +193,7 @@ User accounts:
 - [Gunpower](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunpowder)
 - [Pyrotechnic composition](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrotechnic_composition)
 - [Pyrotechnic colorant](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrotechnic_colorant)
-- [American Pyrotechnics Association](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Pyrotechnics_Association)
+- [American Pyrotechnics Association](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Pyrotechnics_Association) 
 - [List of UN numbers 0301 to 0400 (includes fireworks & pyrotechnic devices)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_UN_numbers_0301_to_0400)
 - 
 
@@ -357,7 +357,7 @@ There are some old pyrotechnic websites which are not available anymore. The [In
 	- https://www.bitchute.com/channel/X6adxEKbK8Ky/
 	- https://mx5-kevin.blogspot.com/
 	- https://sufnipiro.wordpress.com/
-- 
+- https://www.americanpyro.com/
 
 # Death links
 

drafts/weblinks.sync-conflict-20240406-191249-TWJVVQA.md

@@ -0,0 +1,363 @@
+# Pyrotechnic references and links
+
+- [PyroData.com](https://pyrodata.com)
+- [Alan's lab Pyrotechnics (vk2zay.net)](http://www.vk2zay.net/category/4)
+- [Pyrotechnics FAQ rec.pyrotechnics (stason.org)](https://stason.org/TULARC/entertainment/pyrotechnics/)
+- [Fireworking.com - Hosted by ned gorski](https://fireworking.com/)
+- [United Nuclear](https://unitednuclear.com/)
+- [PyroSource Wiki (famdom.com)](https://pyrosource.fandom.com/)
+- [CannonFuse.com -  PYROTECHNIC INFORMATION](https://cannonfuse.com/pyrotechnic-information.html)
+- [Passfire Labs Inc.](http://www.passfire.com/)
+- [FreePyroInfo.com](http://www.freepyroinfo.com/)
+- [FreePyroInfo on getyourfirstgun.com](http://www.getyourfirstgun.com/)
+- [Journal of Pyrotechnics](http://jpyro.com/)
+- [American Firework News](http://www.fireworksnews.com/)
+- [Journal of Pyrotechnics Archive](http://www.jpyro.co.uk/)
+- [The Canadian Fireworks Association ACP](http://www.canadianfireworks.org/)
+- [Pyrotechnic Magazine (Barendrecht, NL)](https://issuu.com/pyromag)
+- [pyrotechnicmag on Facebook](https://www.facebook.com/pyrotechnicmag/)
+- [AbeBooks Pyrotechnics](https://www.abebooks.com/collections/sc/pyrotechnics/yUF6NQk2W1tdenSFIJB16)
+- [sufnipiro.wordpress.com (hungarian, google translate)](https://sufnipiro-wordpress-com.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp)
+- [sufnipirotechnikus google drive share (hungarian)](https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwXIGQD4ku3hfjc0NXZYV2ZydnlvTXR1RkxoV09nVGgydFloWUdReVNCeXV5aThoSHlrRTQ?resourcekey=0-C5YQbuKSwX5zQJOOlwRloQ)
+- [The Chlorates and Perchlorates (mirrored by exrockets.com)](http://www.chlorates.exrockets.com/chlorate.html)
+- [Richard Nakka's Experimental Rocketry](https://www.nakka-rocketry.net/)
+- [Painting the sky - Notes on Fireworks (wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks)](http://www.wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/)
+- [Painting the sky - Notes on Fireworks (creagan.net/fireworks)](http://creagan.net/fireworks/)
+- [mx5-kevin.blogspot.com (hungarian)](https://mx5-kevin.blogspot.com/)
+- [odysee.com/@mx5kevin](https://odysee.com/@mx5kevin:a)
+- [The fireworks blog](https://thefireworksblog.com/)
+- [SkyLighter.com How to Make Fireworks blog](https://www.skylighter.com/blogs/how-to-make-fireworks/)
+- [woelen.homescience.net](https://woelen.homescience.net/science/chem/exps/index_fire.html)
+- [The Spudding and Pyro Page - pyropage.50megs.com](http://www.pyropage.50megs.com/)
+- [Redbeard's Fireworks Showcase LLC](https://redbeardsfireworksshowcase.com/)
+- <https://www.fireworks.co.uk/>
+- <https://www.nakka-rocketry.net/>
+- <https://sufnipiro.wordpress.com/> (hungarian)
+- https://www.fireworksmanual.com/
+- https://unece.org/transport/dangerous-goods/ghs-pictograms 
+- http://japan-fireworks.com/
+- https://www.ukfr.com/
+
+## Youtube 
+
+**Channels**
+
+- [mx5kevin](https://www.youtube.com/user/mx5kevin)
+- [nedgorski](https://www.youtube.com/user/nedgorski)
+- [Praetzel Projects](https://www.youtube.com/c/PraetzelProjects)
+- [Feanor Forges chlorate syntheses (french/english)](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPovJgzEV_tdmPzNnlzVgtQ)
+- [NurdRage chemistry channel](https://www.youtube.com/user/nurdrage)
+- [Fps PyroHD](https://www.youtube.com/c/FpsPyroHD)
+- [Bangkok Pyro](https://www.youtube.com/user/BangkokPyroHolidays/videos)
+- [Vuurvent](https://www.youtube.com/c/vuurvent)
+- [Pyroshine Fireworks](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQvwsB3qGi43zzB-KHzi4g)
+- [Piroteknik Amatir](https://www.youtube.com/@PiroteknikAmatir)
+- [King Pyro](https://www.youtube.com/@kingpyro328)
+- [CodyBPyrotechnics](https://www.youtube.com/@CodyBPyrotechnics)
+- [Creswood Corners Fireworks](https://www.youtube.com/@creswoodcornersfireworks7903)
+- [ned gorski (from fireworking.com)](https://www.youtube.com/@nedgorski)
+- [Pyrophoria @pyrophoria2206](https://www.youtube.com/@pyrophoria2206)
+- [homemade_pyro - The pyrotechnics with hands in russia @TheMegaPirotek](https://www.youtube.com/@TheMegaPirotek/)
+- [NightHawkInLight](https://www.youtube.com/@Nighthawkinlight/videos)
+- [Pyro Planet @PyroPlanetFireworks - Leading American fireworks brand. Premium fireworks/pyrotechnics](https://www.youtube.com/@PyroPlanetFireworks)
+- [](https://www.youtube.com/@MakeAndDestroyTwo/featured)
+- [](https://www.youtube.com/@MakeAndDestroyFireworks)
+
+## Playlists
+
+- [Fireworking 101 Complete Series by Ned Gorski](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL437YZxIb3Fer-N8tQdetGV5LbaKHN3B_)
+- [Pyrotechnics by @xor-gate](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJ7oxfi0BzG5K1q7nnIAX5pl0QsWl42B_)
+
+## Youtube movies and documentaries
+
+- [How are fireworks made? Dominator Fireworks Factory Cake Assembly!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSt_G2U_tYA)
+- [HOW FIREWORK SHELLS MADE | HOW TO MAKE SKY SHOTS (Made In Sri Lanka)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDvea5Y4L04)
+- [The Science of Fireworks](https://youtu.be/lfkjm2YRG-Q)
+- [Chemistry of Fireworks - Reverend Ron Lancaster (full lecture)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M03esB_HBzM&list=PLJ7oxfi0BzG5K1q7nnIAX5pl0QsWl42B_&index=46)
+- [Pyrotechnics Education Knowledge Video - Sports Grounds Safety Authority (SGSA from UK)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLHkwy8aOQ8)
+
+# Safety
+
+* https://www.ibb.ch/library/pyro-safety/
+* [OSHA.gov (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) - Pyrotechnics Industry](https://www.osha.gov/pyrotechnics/display)
+
+## Youtube fireworks shows
+
+- [@CodyBPyrotechnics - Fireworks at the Lake! - 4th of July MONSTER BACKYARD DISPLAY (2023)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTAAI4I23dk)
+- [Festa Sant'Agata 2014 - Fuochi del Borgo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NeGG0Qrqok)
+
+## Youtube accident movies
+
+- [Phantom Fireworks of Melbourne Goes up in Flames!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvrI39CUZfg)
+- [Melbourne, FL Phantom Fireworks Fire November 28, 2022](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z-Qf3p-zhM)
+- [Firework stores Final Finale](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ori6QGRuFNI)
+
+## Dutch
+
+- [Vuurwerkplant](https://www.vuurwerkplanet.nl/)
+- [Freakpyromaniacs.com](https://freakpyromaniacs.com/)
+- [Vuurwerk bieb](https://vuurwerkbieb.nl/)
+- [Vuurwerk toppers](https://vuurwerktoppers.nl/)
+- [Vuurwerk totaal](https://vuurwerktotaal.nl/)
+
+## Clubs
+
+- [UK Pyrotechnics Society (pyrosociety.org.uk)](http://www.pyrosociety.org.uk/)
+- [International Pyrotechnics Society (intpyrosoc.org)](https://www.intpyrosoc.org/)
+- [Western Pyrotechnic Association](https://www.westernpyro.org/)
+- [Pyrotechnics Guild International (PGI)](https://www.pgi.org/)
+
+## Manufacturers and proffesionals
+
+- [Pyro Spec Pro Grade (1.4G)](https://pyrospecprograde.com/)
+- [Pyro Spectaculars by Souza](https://www.pyrospec.com/)
+
+## Forums
+
+- X [Fireworking.com Forum](https://fireworking.com/forum)
+- X [APC Forum](https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums)
+- X [Pyro Gear UK Forum](http://pyro-gear.co.uk/forum/)
+- X [Sciencemadness.org Forum](https://www.sciencemadness.org/whisper/)
+- X [r/Pyrotechnics on Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Pyrotechnics)
+- X [r/fireworks on Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/fireworks)
+- X [Pyroforum.nl (Dutch)](https://pyroforum.nl/)
+- X [Pyrosociety.org.uk (United Kingdom)](http://www.pyrosociety.org.uk/forum/)
+- X [The Vespiary (English)](https://www.thevespiary.org/)
+- X [Pirotehnika-ruhelp.com (Russian)](https://pirotehnika-ruhelp.com/)
+- X [Freakpyromaniacs (Dutch)](https://freakpyromaniacs.com/index.php)
+- X [Forumfajerwerki (Polish)](https://www.forumfajerwerki.pl/)
+- X [Feuerwerk-Forum.de (German)](https://www.feuerwerk-forum.de/)
+- X [Pirovagando.it (Italian)](https://www.pirovagando.it/)
+- [Finale3D.com forum (Firework show designer software)](https://finale3d.com/groups/english/forum/)
+- X [Vuurwerkcrew.nl Forum (Dutch)](https://forum.vuurwerkcrew.nl/)
+- X [FEURWERK.net Forum (German)](https://www.feuerwerk-forum.de/)
+- TBD [Das-pyroforum.de (German)](https://www.das-pyroforum.de/)
+- TBD [Pyrouniverse.info (English)](https://www.pyrouniverse.info/)
+- X [Pyrocommunity.com](https://www.pyrocommunity.com/)
+- [Kelli Rene Hartman's all FIREWORKS STUFF (Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/114666445911992)
+- [The Engineering of Fireworks (Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1090016474815562/)
+- [Pyrotekniska Paradiset (Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/449339439513933)
+- [Fireworks Engineering (Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1450541778550025)
+- [Pyro Community (Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/pyrocommunity/)
+- [FireworksPyro365 (Facebook public group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/3307916809333218/)
+- [Vuurwerk & Pyro’s United (Facebook public group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/vuurwerk1/)
+- [pyro.s for life (Dutch Facebook private group)](https://www.facebook.com/groups/345420219162892/)
+- <https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bangkok-Pyro/468209033286393>
+- <https://www.facebook.com/groups/3195446144014132>
+- <https://www.facebook.com/groups/272928599748>
+- <https://www.facebook.com/groups/1571649519746776/>
+- <https://www.facebook.com/groups/141066319965/>
+- [Rocketry Forum](https://www.rocketryforum.com/)
+- <https://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/forum.php>
+- LambdaSyn syntheses https://proxy.zeronet.dev/1AZF9dziVq4anpETDDUrq8Nq565axWyHwZ/
+
+## Chats
+
+- [PyroHub.eu Discord](https://discord.com/invite/RrzTV6nxEB)
+
+## Databases
+
+- X [Vk2zay.net composition DB](http://www.vk2zay.net/composition/)
+- [PyroData composition DB](https://pyrodata.com/composition/A)
+- [PyroData chemical DB](https://pyrodata.com/chemicals)
+- X [Sciencemadness.org Wiki](http://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Main_Page)
+- X [Sciencemadness.org Library](http://library.sciencemadness.org/library/index.html)
+- [APC Forum Pyrotechnics Resource Library](https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/page/index.html)
+- [APC Forum Downloads](https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/files/)
+- [Pyroforum.nl Downloads](https://pyroforum.nl/files/)
+- [PyroGuide wiki (hosted at PyroData.com)](https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/default.htm)
+- [Reddit wiki r/Pyrotechnics Pyrotechnics: News, articles and videos about the art of pyrotechnics](https://www.reddit.com/r/Pyrotechnics/wiki/index/)
+- [List of Pyrotechnics Discussion Forums & Communities (fwsim.com)](https://www.fwsim.com/fireworks-online-communities.html)
+- [A collection of pyrotechnic compositions by Wouter Visser (on web.archive.org - krimzonpyro.com](https://web.archive.org/web/20040808041812/http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/infodir/compoDB.html)
+- [PFP Database](https://www.privatedata.com/byb/pyro/pfp/Index.html)
+- https://web.archive.org/web/20170616101434/http://www.pyrodb.org/links.php5
+
+
+## Wikipedia
+
+- [Chemical substance](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_substance)
+- [Gunpower](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunpowder)
+- [Pyrotechnic composition](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrotechnic_composition)
+- [Pyrotechnic colorant](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrotechnic_colorant)
+- [American Pyrotechnics Association](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Pyrotechnics_Association)
+- [List of UN numbers 0301 to 0400 (includes fireworks & pyrotechnic devices)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_UN_numbers_0301_to_0400)
+- 
+
+## Books
+
+- [Chemical Publishing Company - Fireworks Technology](https://www.chemical-publishing.com/firework_pyrotechnics_firework_chemistry_s/1.htm)
+- [Amazon.com pyrotechnics books](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pyrotechnics&i=stripbooks-intl-ship&page=2&qid=1663775371&sprefix=pyrotech%2Cstripbooks-intl-ship%2C126&ref=sr_pg_2)
+- [Skylighter.com books](https://www.skylighter.com/collections/books)
+- [Journal of Pyrotechnics (uploaded PDF files)](https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.jpyro.co.uk%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads+pdf&sxsrf=ALiCzsbqCqlRGLrDkl-EyZIdJJysYnFoGg%3A1664605339593&source=hp&ei=m9w3Y56UIeHjkgXilIWYDg&iflsig=AJiK0e8AAAAAYzfqqxnrF6LlollEpu7C5wO2VNlaO3JN&ved=0ahUKEwjezdGPsr76AhXhsaQKHWJKAeMQ4dUDCAk&uact=5&oq=site%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.jpyro.co.uk%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads+pdf&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BAgjECc6CAgAELEDEIMBOgsIABCABBCxAxCDAToRCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQxwEQ0QM6BQguEIAEOg4ILhCABBCxAxCDARDUAjoLCC4QsQMQgwEQ1AI6CwguEIAEELEDENQCOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARCvAToICC4QgAQQsQM6CAgAEIAEELEDOgUIABCABDoLCC4QgAQQxwEQ0QM6CwguEIAEEMcBEK8BOgUIABDLAVAAWPspYJwsaAFwAHgAgAFQiAGuBJIBAjExmAEAoAEBoAEC&sclient=gws-wiz)
+- [Skylighter.com Fireworks & Pyro Projects eBook](https://www.skylighter.com/pages/fireworks-ebook)
+- [Pyrotechnics: the history and art of firework making (free at archive.org)](https://archive.org/details/pyrotechnicshis00broc)
+- [The Chemistry of Powder and Explosives by Tenney L Davis Ph.D. ISBN-0913022-00-4 (Pub Angriff Press)](https://www.amazon.com/Chemistry-Powder-Explosives-Tenney-Davis/dp/0913022004)
+- Fireworks - Principles and Pratice - 3rd Edition by Rev Ronald Lancaster MBE, ISBN-0-8206-0354-6 (Pub Chemical Publishing Co Inc)
+- Pyrotecnics by George W Weingart, ISBN-9993873403 (Pub Paladin Press)
+- A History of Fireworks by Alan St H Brock (Pub George G Harrap & Co Ltd)
+- The Pyrotechnist's Treasury by Thomas Kentish, ISBN-0-929931-09-2 (Republished by American Fireworks news)
+- Fireworks, The Art, Science and Technique by Takeo Shimizu, ISBN-0-929388-05-4 (Pub Pyrotechnica Publications)
+- Firework Art by Mark Fleming, ISBN-0-9550621-0-1 (Pub Rumble)
+- [Weingart's Dictionary and Manual of Fireworks by George Weingart, ISBN-13/EAN 9780820600932 (Chemical Publishing Company)](https://www.amazon.com/Weingarts-Dictionary-Manual-Fireworks-Weingart/dp/0820600938)
+
+## Regulation
+
+- [BAM.de Division 2.5 Conformity Assessment Explosives and Pyrotechnics (German)](https://www.bam.de/Navigation/EN/About-us/Organisation/Organisation-Chart/President/Department-2/Division-25/division25.html)
+- [ATF Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives - Fireworks (U.S)](https://www.atf.gov/explosives/fireworks)
+- [REGULATION (EU) No 98/2013 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 15 January 2013 on the marketing and use of explosives precursors](https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32013R0098)
+- [Regulation (EU) 2019/1148 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 20 June 2019 on the marketing and use of explosives precursors, amending Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 and repealing Regulation (EU) No 98/2013](https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32019R1148&qid=1702808615363)
+- [International cooperation disrupts illegal fireworks network - 
+80 tons of F4 explosives seized and 4 webshops blocked (06 December 2018)](https://www.eurojust.europa.eu/news/international-cooperation-disrupts-illegal-fireworks-network)
+
+**Articles**
+
+- [Précurseurs d’explosifs – Le SFEPA contribue aux travaux de la mission interministérielle mandatée par le Premier Ministre (France, Europe)](https://www.sfepa.com/precurseurs-dexplosifs-le-sfepa-contribue-aux-travaux-de-la-mission-interministerielle-mandatee-par-le-premier-ministre/)
+- [VERORDENING (EU) Nr. 98/2013 VAN HET EUROPEES PARLEMENT EN DE RAAD van 15 januari 2013 over het op de markt brengen en het gebruik van precursoren voor explosieven (Dutch, Europe)](https://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2013:039:0001:0011:NL:PDF)
+- [](https://www.eurojust.europa.eu/news/international-cooperation-disrupts-illegal-fireworks-network)
+
+### EU
+
+```
+ExplosiveCoek
+Posted March 13, 2017, original on APC forum:
+
+with three new substances to the list of precursors at the All explosives. II Reg. (EC) n. 98/2013
+21/02/2017
+The All. II Reg. (EU) No. 98/2013 lists those substances which may be precursors of explosives. These substances are subject to harmonized standards in the case of willingness on the part of private and designed to ensure proper reporting of suspicious transactions, disappearances and thefts all along the supply chain.
+This latest update has seen the inclusion in App. II of the following three substances:
+Aluminium powder - Cas No. 7429-90-5 (Reg (EU) 2017/214);
+Magnesium nitrate hexahydrate - Cas No 13446-18-9 (Reg. (EU) 2017/215);
+Magnesium Powder - Cas No. 7439-95-4 (Reg. (EU) 2017/216).
+```
+
+## Retail
+
+- [facebook category fireworks retailer (google search)](https://www.google.com/search?q=facebook+category+fireworks+retailer&oq=facebook+category+fireworks+retailer)
+
+### U.S firework retail
+
+- [](https://www.elitefireworks.com/)
+- [](https://outlawpyro.com/)
+- [](https://americanwholesalefireworks.com/)
+
+## Tutorials
+
+- [My easy way of making K perchlorate - amateurpyro.com](https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/14212-my-easy-way-of-making-k-perchlorate/)
+
+## Articles
+
+- [WHAT'S THAT STUFF? FIREWORKS - SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY July 2, 2001 - Volume 79, Number 27 (pubsapp.acs.org)](https://pubsapp.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/stuff/7927sci3.html)
+- [The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics - pyropage.50megs.com/sciproj.htm](http://www.pyropage.50megs.com/sciproj.htm)
+- [The Chemistry of Fireworks - chm.bris.ac.uk/webprojects1997/RebeccaH](https://www.chm.bris.ac.uk/webprojects1997/RebeccaH/)
+- [The fine line of amateur pyrotechnics - International Fire Fighter (IFF)](https://web.archive.org/web/20210123224404/https://iffmag.mdmpublishing.com/fine-line-amateur-pyrotechnics/) - <https://iffmag.com/fine-line-amateur-pyrotechnics/>
+- <https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0160932708000082>
+
+## Patents
+
+- [US7988801B2 Perchlorate-free green signal flare composition](https://patents.google.com/patent/US7988801B2/en)
+
+## Internet archive (web.archive.org)
+
+There are some old pyrotechnic websites which are not available anymore. The [Internet Archive Wayback Machine](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wayback_Machine) project has website mirrors available.
+
+- [Practical Pyrotechnics - wfvisser.dds.nl](https://web.archive.org/web/20070205044811/http://www.wfvisser.dds.nl/indexEN.html)
+- [Pyroguide.com](https://web.archive.org/web/20071001110311/http://www.pyroguide.com/index.php?title=Main_Page)
+- [Krimzon Pyro - carpathiahost.net](https://web.archive.org/web/20160307162211/http://krimzonpyro.com.ve.carpathiahost.net/)
+- [Krimzon Pyro - krimzonpyro.com](https://web.archive.org/web/20040729212141/http://krimzonpyro.com/)
+- [Dimock's Pyro Page - pyropage.com](https://web.archive.org/web/20060101062943/http://www.pyropage.com/)
+- [pyrodb.org](https://web.archive.org/web/20170907123333/http://www.pyrodb.org)
+- [United Nuclear Chemistry Experiments (2009-09-17)](https://web.archive.org/web/20090917022238/http://unitednuclear.com/experindex.htm)
+- [United Nuclear - Making Fireworks & Chemical Experiments (2004-08-08)](https://web.archive.org/web/20040808011958/http://www.unitednuclear.com/experindex.htm)
+- [The Chlorates and Perchlorates synthesis by CapeCanaveral (geocities.com)](https://web.archive.org/web/20090331073423/http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Campus/5361/basechem.html)
+- [Pyrocenter (hungarian)](https://web.archive.org/web/20220520125842/https://pyrocenter.hu/)
+- [detonatorhun.hostzi.com (hungarian)](https://web.archive.org/web/20140721125816/http://detonatorhun.hostzi.com:80/home.html)
+- [members.shaw.ca/justin.le](https://web.archive.org/web/20040429045325/http://members.shaw.ca/justin.le/)
+- [www.pyropage.com](https://web.archive.org/web/20060114155712/http://www.pyropage.com/)
+- [The Green Man](https://web.archive.org/web/20191102071839/http://www.thegreenman.me.uk/projects/csf.html)
+- Short fuse pyrotechnics <https://web.archive.org/web/20170908034641/http://www.angelfire.com/al/pyrotech/index1.html>
+
+# Unsorted (or duplicates)
+
+- [Canadian Pyro](https://canadianpyro.ca/)
+- [Fireworks-Forum.org.uk](https://www.fireworks-forum.org.uk/)
+- [PyroTalk.com](https://www.pyrotalk.com/)
+- [PyroTalk.com Archive](https://www.pyrotalk.com/bulletin/archive/index.php)
+- [Marutamaya Ogatsu Fireworks Co., Ltd (Japan, JP)](http://www.mof.co.jp/eng/)
+- [American Fireworks News - He who hath smelt the smoke is never agin free](https://www.fireworksnews.com/)
+- [APA EST. 1948 - americanpyro.com](https://www.americanpyro.com/)
+- [Zambelli Fireworks - Photos (zambellifireworks.com)](https://www.zambellifireworks.com/photo/)
+- [Montréal International Pyromusical Competition](http://montreal-fireworks.com/)
+- [CRACKERPACKS-Firecracker Labels](http://crackerpacks.com/)
+- [firework museum old fireworks collecting fireworks 1998-2019 (fireworksmuseum.co.uk)](http://www.fireworkmuseum.co.uk/)
+- [faqs.org/faqs/pyrotechnics-faq](http://www.faqs.org/faqs/pyrotechnics-faq/)
+- [How Fireworks Work: The "Bang!" Behind the Beauty](http://www.sitnews.us/0604news/062604/062604_fireworks.html)
+- [COBRA(tm) USA - Wireless Fireworks Firing System](https://www.cobrafiringsystems.com/)
+- [IGNITE™ USA - Smartphone Enabled Fireworks Firing System - ignitefiringsystems.com](https://www.ignitefiringsystems.com)
+- [Create your own Fireworks Shows - fwsim.com](https://www.fwsim.com/)
+- [FireOne at the 18th Annual ISF International Symposium on Fireworks, in Malta]()
+- [FireOne Firing System - The Most Advanced Wired and Wireless Firing System (fireone.com)](https://www.fireone.com/)
+- [My Research - Experiments - myresearch.company](http://www.myresearch.company/experiments.phtml)
+- [Pyrotechnics & Fireworks Chemical Information - getyourfirstgun.com](http://www.getyourfirstgun.com/)
+- [British Pyrotechnists Association | The UK's Association for Professional Firework Display Companies (BPA) (pyro.org.uk)](https://pyro.org.uk/)
+- [Association of Stage Pyrotechnicians (ASP) (stage-pyro.org.uk)](https://stage-pyro.org.uk/)
+- [International Symposium on Fireworks (isfireworks.com)](https://isfireworks.com/)
+- [Program 13th International Symposium on Firework - Malta - abril 2012 (e-Magazine)](https://www.calameo.com/books/000770436efca5d77e476)
+- [National Fireworks Association - Stand with the NFA (US)](https://www.nationalfireworks.com/)
+- [EuFiAs - European Fireworks Association](https://eufias.org/)
+- [Pyrotechnic Interest Group - Belangenvereniging Pyrotechniek Nederland (BPN) (Dutch)](https://belangenvereniging-pyrotechniek-nederland.b-p-n.nl/)
+- [vuurwerkcheck.nl](https://vuurwerkcheck.nl)
+- [Energetic Materials Fundamentals and Applications - Conference slides (osti.gov)](https://www.osti.gov/biblio/1766699)
+- [Di Blasio Elio Fireworks distributes pyrotechnic products with the Cobra brand name, intestate to Mr. Di Blasio Elio](https://www.diblasioeliofireworks.it/)
+- [Di Blasio Elio - Italy - Dummy catalog 2019](https://www.diblasioeliofireworks.it/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/OK_Rev-04_19_DE_DUMMIES-CATALOGUE_2019.pdf)
+- <https://vuurwerkklok.nl/>
+- <https://www.heronfireworks.com/en/>
+- <https://vuurwerkduitsland.nl/>
+- <https://76fireworks.com/>
+- <https://www.arkafajerwerki.pl/>
+- <https://www.fireworksworld.net/>
+- <https://www.woodysrocks.com/> Shop for tools
+- http://www.faqs.org/faqs/pyrotechnics-faq/
+- https://stason.org/TULARC/entertainment/pyrotechnics/index.html
+
+# TODO
+
+- <https://eufias.org/members> -> Add members of European Fireworks Association to this list
+- <https://www.petitievoorvuurwerk.nl/partners> -> Add members
+- <https://www.google.com/search?q=Pyrotechnics+training+course+online&sxsrf=AB5stBhIxc-n-3TTcFaWYFbKleAW81DDdA%3A1689192241683&ei=MQevZJexKbGhkdUP9--iiA0&ved=0ahUKEwjXjZe8-4mAAxWxUKQEHfe3CNEQ4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=Pyrotechnics+training+course+online&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwAzIKCAAQRxDWBBCwA0oECEEYAFAAWABgswdoAXABeACAAQCIAQCSAQCYAQDAAQHIAQg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp>
+- <https://www.skylighter.com/pages/pyro-club> (site added) -> Add links "DB" to this list
+- [SGSA - Pyrotechnics (UK)](https://sgsa.org.uk/pyrotechnics/)
+- [Rozzi Fireworks Displays (US)](https://www.rozzifireworks.com/)
+- [International Fireworks MFG. Co. Displays & Consumer fireworks (US)](https://www.internationalfireworks.com/)
+- Links to this list: https://www.fireworksworld.net/
+- Links to be sorted https://pyrodata.com/PyroGuide/index.php%5Etitle=PyroGuide_Pyro_Site_Links.htm
+- Links to be sorted  https://web.archive.org/web/20170616101434/http://www.pyrodb.org/links.php5
+
+# Death links
+
+[Rotted links](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link_rot) or [squatted Pyrotechnic domains](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cybersquatting)
+
+**Squatted domains**
+
+- [The Chemistry of Fireworks - pyrotechnist.com]( http://www.pyrotechnist.com)
+- [firework-art.com](https://firework-art.com/)
+
+**Free & obsolete domains and pages**
+
+- [The Green Man](https://www.thegreenman.me.uk/)
+- [PyrotechnicMagazine.com](http://pyrotechnicmagazine.com/)
+- [thegreenman.me.uk](http://www.thegreenman.me.uk/)
+- [infernolabs.co.uk](http://www.infernolabs.co.uk)
+- [petelin.gozdis.si/~jakal/index.htm](http://petelin.gozdis.si/~jakal/index.htm)
+- [PFP Data Base - Pyrotechnic Formulas (members.shaw.ca/gryphon223)](http://members.shaw.ca/gryphon223/)
+- [pyrotechs.org/dwilliams/top.html](http://www.pyrotechs.org/dwilliams/top.html)
+- [Pyrotechnic Projects, Formulas & Manufacturing Technique Pyrowiki - pyroguide.com](http://www.pyroguide.com/)
+- [frogfot.com/pyro.html](http://www.frogfot.com/pyro.html)
+- [The Chemistry of Fireworks - www.pyrocanada.ca/fireworks.html](http://www.pyrocanada.ca/fireworks.html)
+- [United Nuclear - PYROTECHNIC CHEMISTRY EXPERIMENTS](http://unitednuclear.com/experindex.htm)
+- [Cannon Fuse - Pyrotechnic Projects](http://www.cannonfuse.com/projects/index.asp)
+- [mopyro.us/Whistle.htm](https://www.mopyro.us/Whistle.htm)
+- [jackerypyro.com/projects.html](http://www.jackerypyro.com/projects.html)
+- [pyro-materials.net](http://pyro-materials.net/)
+- [more-pyrotechnics.com](http://more-pyrotechnics.com/)
+- 
+

images/hand-injury/README.md

@@ -1,2 +0,0 @@
-Fireworks hand injury from APC member benrenyi4
-https://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/gallery/album/310-fireworks/